Luang Prabang, Cows and Beer Laos

So,

We arrived in Laos about five days ago, landing in the beautiful city of Luang Prabang. I really really really like it here. It is really relaxed, the architecture is amazing and the people are lovely. The markets are even calm! Quite a contrast to the craziness of Vietnamese or Thai markets. I was bartering for a bed spread and the lady gave me a little seat to sit on, which I thought summed this place up. We have also met up with Nyssa, who is a good friend from Melbourne, which has provided an excuse to drink much lao lao (well at least beer Lao).

We have visited a bunch of things in and around Luang Prabang. The best was a lovely waterfall. The worst was a weird and crap cave that was home to over 5000 crappy broken Buddha images. However, the highlight has just been riding bikes around, looking at the many wats scattered over the town and lapping up the cool atmosphere. I also read some books to some kids as part of great 'learn to read' program they have here in Luang Prabang.

Three days ago we jumped on a bus up to Nong Kiow, which is a quiet village about four hours north. We explored some awesome caves that villagers had lived in during the Secret War with the Americans (so secret in fact that I was really unsure what they were talking about for a while). The next day we jumped on a boat up to Mong Noi, which is another small town. Nyssa and I went and looked at caves (although no secret war connotations this time) and then attempted to set out for a Village that was apparently one hour's walk away, only to be discouraged by cows. That's right. Cows. A bunch of villagers pointed us down towards a dry rice field, which was fine. But then we saw a huge menacing heard of cows. I scanned my memory for stories of people venturing into cow paddocks and being killed, and me thinking "hmm what a dumb thing to do, I know I wouldn't do that", and while I was unable to recall any such memory we decided that the bull looking thing that was eyeing us didn't like white people. So we left. I'm sure the villagers understood our decision and didn't think us weak and wussy.

Having arrived back in town safe and sound we settled in for some average food (what can you expect in the middle of Laos, especially when you've been spoilt by Vietnam) and a few beer Laos with the local tourist office guy and the restaurant owner. By the way, believe the hype around Beer Lao. Nothing short of the best beer I've had in South East Asia. Beats the pants off Tiger, Singha, Saigon, Huda....any of them!

It was really nice to travel up to these towns. While they can't quite claim the coveted title of being truly "off the beaten track", what with Guesthouses and electricity till 10:00 pm, they were a significant change from the treks in the touristy areas of Chaing Mai or Sapa. Tourism still plays quite a much small role in these villages' economies and thus there were no handicrafts in sight, which I must say is quite a relief! Not sure what they will be like in five years though; quite changed I imagine.

We're heading to Phonnsovan tomorrow, which is home to the mystical "plain of jars". From there it is on to the tubing capital of Laos (quite a title) Vang Vieng!